Repairing a Rotten Door Entry. I was on a job recently where I had to completely rework the entry door install on a house. It was difficult to tell from a distance, but the original work had been poorly done and that might be an understatement. All of the errors made in that original installation became more and more apparent once I started disassembling the install in order to right the wrongs. Sometimes you have to peel back more than the skin to see how rotten the fruit is at the core. And then you need to take a strategic approach to help that core heal. Installing Entry Door Concrete Slab' title='Installing Entry Door Concrete Slab' />The original rotten door entry Note Click any image to enlargePeeling the Layers. We started by removing the side casings. This is where we encountered our first issue. Removing the casings revealed improper weather barrier installationno flashing was applied see photos below. On top of that, one of the sides was missing a section of housewrap, leading to rotten sheathing. There was also rot at the bottom corner of the opening. Of course, if flashing had been incorporated with the housewrap, these problems could have been prevented. In this case, by sealing the bottom, water had become trapped behind the trim, causing damage to the sheathing and to the rim joist, which was badly rotted. When I removed the casings I had noticed the bottom corners were bulging out about one inch. After removing the riser, along with the rubber flashing, I found that someone had attempted a repair, but they only made matters worseThey had applied a 1 in. I poked at the rim joist when I removed the sheathing and found that it also had to be replaced. I then removed some more sheathing on both sides in order to cut the rim joist at a solid section. And Now for the Real Job. After tapping in the rim joist, and securing it to the floor joists, I added metal plates to tie the repaired section to the existing rim joist. Since the stoop was placed up against the rim joist, I also added a piece of self adhesive flashing to protect the structure. This important detail was previously missing, and it contributed to the water damage. As a side note, I always make sure to keep my long projects weather tight and secure, no matter what the forecast says You dont want to have any issues that could force you to pay for damages. Trust me. Then I installed both sides, repeating the same process at the top of the opening with more bow ties. Instead of installing the unit into the opening and fussing with wood shims, I opted for a different approach. Bookcase Hidden Door Plans Lifetime Sheds 12 X 20 Bookcase Hidden Door Plans Freelands Property Curacao How To Build A Firewood Shed Using Log Posts. Making A Concrete Slab For A Shed Rent To Own Storage Sheds Asheville Making A Concrete Slab For A Shed Garden Sheds Christchurch Storage Shed Memphis. Installing Entry Door Concrete Slab' title='Installing Entry Door Concrete Slab' />These are my notes on creating nice residential concrete floors. In my primary residence, I put in about 1500 sqft of concrete floors in the lower level. Shed Concrete Slab lt How To Build A Shed With Pallets Eccentric Reducer 8x6 Building Small Shed With Barn Style Roof. Replace a worn, drafty front door with a stylish new energyefficient one. Replacement doors come prehung in a weatherstripped frame and you dont have to. We took out a bathtub and want to build a doorless shower in its place. We have a concrete slab. We are wondering if it is best to move the drain to the center. I was on a job recently where I had to completely rework the entry door install on a house. It was difficult to tell from a distance, but the original work had been. Wooden Outdoor Storge Sheds In 16002 Plans For Kid Sized Picnic Table Wooden Outdoor Storge Sheds In 16002 Plans For A Cycling Workbench How Build Bunk Bed Plans. How To Build Wooden Steps On A Concrete Slab Shed Info 1850s New England How To Build Wooden Steps On A Concrete Slab Unusual Chicken Coop Ideas Design Shades Windows. AimjnrI.jpg' alt='Installing Entry Door Concrete Slab' title='Installing Entry Door Concrete Slab' />This different way made it easier, faster, and allowed me to work alone. I used deck screws as shims on each side to make my unit dead plumb with no fussing. Finishing Garden Shed Concrete Slab How To Build Wood Outdoor Sofia Finishing Garden Shed Concrete Slab Outdoor Sheds Long Island Octagonal Deck Diy Plans. First, I marked the location of the hinges onto the rough opening, and I marked the location of the top and bottom of the unit. Starting from the sill on the opening, I marked a center line in the middle, and then measured half the distance both ways to the outside dimension O. D. of the jambthats where Id start installing shim screws. I installed a pair of shim screws at each location, keeping them flat and spaced enough to catch the jambs width. I began the shimming process from the bottom. I measured up 1 in. I installed a pair of screws. To know how deep to set the screws, I set my speed square flat on the sill and held it on the mark Id made for the O. D. of the jamb. I adjusted the screws until they touched the square. I prefer to use a screw gun rather than an impactscrew guns make it easier to set the screws. Once the bottom screws were set, I installed the next set of screws plumb to the bottom screws using a 2 ft. I continued in this manner up the jamb, using each previous set of screws as a starting point. Once I reached the top, I added a set of screws one inch below the top of the door unit. When I completed the jamb side, I transferred all the screw locations to the other side and pre set those screws. Then, I cut a board to the exact dimension of the door unit. Using this board as a guide, I set the screws across from each other to fit the board. The opening was then ready to receive the door unit. Re installing the Entry Door         I always like to try to fit the door into the opening, just so I can be sure it fits before I lay beads of caulking on the sill and secure the unit. Exterior Trim. I pre assemble all my exterior trim, and I do it right on the jobsite. I use a small portable De. Walt table saw to rip the casing to width, so it will fit perfectly between the jamb and the siding. Then I install the astragal moldings, which I also pre assemble so that the miters are tight. The weather can be brutal where I live, deep freezing in the winter and high humidity in the summer, so I use PVC trim whenever possiblethat way I never have to worry about coming back to a job for repairs. PVC isnt affected by moisture content, only temperature. And with PVC cement, the miters are joined molecularly. I never have to caulk anything. Final Flashing. After securing the door unit into the opening, it was time to apply the outer layer of wall flashing. We started from the bottom and worked our way up to the top, overlapping each piece by six inches. In order to prevent moisture from entering behind the siding, we needed to seal the wall flashing to the housewrap. We secured the trim kit to the door and wall sheathing, making sure the head and side casings were plumb and level. I like to use screws rather than nails, because then I can be confident that the trim will stay secure, and that the joints will remain tight for years. I installed a piece of flashing before adding the pre assmbled plinth blocks. This flashing would help reduce any water from entering behind the stoop. I sealed the top edge of the flashing with housewrap tape, and left the bottom edge open for water to drain out. Flashing the Head. I dont own a brake, but sometimes I wish I didespecially for custom trim like the deep entablature above this door. I needed a piece of aluminum bent, and I wasnt going to rent a brake for just one piece So I decided to make a jig from a scrap piece of plywood, and I fastened that to my worktable. I measured out two lines 9. I needed. Each lines measurement equaled the exact width of the piece of flashing. Using my jigsaw, and a very steady hand, I cut each line to its exact distance. If the cuts were off, I wouldnt be able to make the piece I wanted. I had to be sure my cuts were perfect. Before leaving, I caulked a few joints to be sure the door was complete and ready for the homeowner to paint again. How to Replace an Exterior Door. Installation overview. Prehung door. Pre hung doors simplify installation. Its not often that you can complete a project in a weekend that will save you money and dramatically improve the looks of your house. In this article, well show you how to order a door thatll fit like a glove. Then well show you, step by step, how to get your old door out and the new one in. If you can handle basic carpentry tasks, youll have no trouble installing a new prehung door in a day. Figure on another day to finish the details and start painting the door. You can complete most of the job with basic hand tools. Youll need a hammer, pry bar, tape measure, level, utility knife, nail set and saw. If you decide to install new interior trim, youll also need a miter saw. We ordered a top quality prehung wood door with special 2 12 in. Simpson Bungalow No. We could have purchased a steel or fiberglass door for much less, but the style and crisp detailing of the wood door matched the house perfectly and we couldnt resist. The door arrived about two weeks after we ordered it. Video How to Hang a Door. Measure your old door. Figure A Measuring. Measure carefully for a perfect fit. In most cases, simply order a new door the same size as the old one. If you alter the size or add sidelights, youll have to reframe the opening and alter many details. This usually doubles or triples the size of the job. Here are the four sets of measurements youll need to order a door refer to Figure A, for extra details Door size. Measure the width and height of your old door. Round these up to full inches to find the size of the replacement door youll need. If, for example, your door measures 3. Jamb width. Measure from the backside of the interior trim to the backside of the exterior trim Figure A. Specify this jamb width when you order your new prehung door. This guarantees that the interior trim will fit flush to the wall without adding jamb extensions. Rough opening. Youll have to remove the interior trim to get accurate measurements of the rough opening. Measure the opening width between framing members and from the bottom of the sill to the top of the opening. Compare these measurements to the rough opening requirements of your new door to make sure it will fit. Exterior opening or masonry opening if you have a brick or stone door surround. Measure to the outsides of the exterior casing and then from the bottom of the sill to the top of the trim. Compare these measurements with those of a prehung door that has standard 2 in. If the framed door with standard trim is too small to completely fill the space or if you want a different trim style, you have three options. The best solution is to order a door with wider, flat casing to fit the opening. You can always add a piece of decorative molding overtop to approximate the style of your existing exterior trim. We ordered 2 1 n. Second, you can order your door with standard molding and fill the gap with additional strips of wood. The last option is to order the door without exterior molding and make your own to fit. Tear out your old door. Photo 1 Remove the old door. Tap the hinge pins loose with a hammer and nail set. Then swing the door open and lift it off. Protect the floor with a dropcloth. The old door will be heavy. Photo 2 Pry loose the old trim. Pry the interior trim loose from the door frame. Protect the wall with a wide putty knife. If you plan to reuse the trim, first score the intersection between the molding and jamb with a utility knife. Ammonia Piping Installation Costs'>Ammonia Piping Installation Costs. Photo 3 Pry off the exterior trim. Slice the caulk joint between the siding brick and exterior trim and pry the trim from the doorjamb with a pry bar. Photo 4 Remove the jambs. Cut completely through the side jamb with a handsaw. Pry the jambs loose and pull them out of the opening. Photos 1 4 show how to take out the old door and frame. If you plan to reuse the interior moldings, pull the nails through the backside with a pliers or nipper to avoid damaging the face. Cutting through one side jamb makes it easy to tear out the entire frame Photo 4. After the door frame is out, check the condition of the framing and subflooring in the sill area. Cut out and replace any rotted wood. If the sill on your new door is thinner than the one you removed, you may have to build up the sill area as shown in Photo 5. Set the sill height so the door just clears carpeting or rugs when it swings inward. Photo 6 shows how to protect the sill from water intrusion. Buy the flashing tape from lumberyards. If youre installing a door in a newly constructed wall, you can buy a special plastic sill flashing kit instead. One brand is Jamsil. Details will vary depending on the doorway situation. The idea is to channel water away from the wood. If your home is built on a concrete slab, the door frame will probably rest directly on the slab. If your door is exposed to the weather, direct water away from the door with a metal drip cap overtop Figure C. Brick openings like ours and doors protected by porches with roofs dont require a drip cap. Youll find drip caps at home centers and lumberyards. If the drip cap is damaged or missing, install a new one before you set the door frame in the opening. Cut the metal drip cap to fit and slide it under the siding and building paper Figure C. If nails are in the way, slip a hacksaw blade under the siding and cut them. Prepare the sill. Photo 5 Install the sill. Build up the sill area to the proper height with treated lumber. Add shims to level it. Fl Studio Software For Pc. Fasten it with coated deck screws. Photo 6 Install flashing tape. Cover the rough sill area with self sticking flashing tape. Wrap it up the sides of the opening and over the front edge. Set the door in the opening, plumb it and check the fit. We were lucky. Our brick opening was level and plumb, but this isnt always the case. Start by checking the sill area with a 2 ft. If youre building it up as we show in Photo 5, its easy to level it with shims at the same time. Otherwise, level the sill area with pairs of shims spaced about 4 in. Then set the door in the opening for a test fit. Hold a level against the hinge jamb and adjust the door and frame until the jamb is plumb. Check to see how the casing fits against the siding. If the siding is so far out of plumb that the door frame and casing dont fit in, you either cut back the siding or trim the casing. It looks better if you can cut the siding, but its usually more practical and easier to trim the casing. Mark the casing in areas that need trimming. Then take the door out and trim the casing with a belt sander or circular saw. Set the door in the opening. Photo 7 Apply caulk. Apply a bead of caulk along the sides and top of the door opening and at the sill according to the manufacturers instructions. Photo 8 Tack in the door. Make sure the doorsill is level. Then center the top of the door in the opening and tack it into place with galvanized casing nails. Plumb the hinge side jamb and tack the bottom corners. Photo 9 Shim the hinge side jamb. Shim behind each hinge. For large spaces, start with small squares of plywood. Then finish with pairs of shims. Make sure the hinge side jamb remains plumb. Photo 1. 0 Shim the latch side jamb. Shim at the top, middle and bottom of the latch side jamb and at the top until the gap between the door and the doorjamb is consistent. Score the shims with a utility knife and break them off.